[photos from this trip were published separately and appear below the narrative]
12 April 2003
True Adventures in Paradise:
Turtle Beach, crocodiles, etc.
Part 1
We were sitting around the front room having happy hour with our Bed and Breakfast guests, Dave and Lenore Boroughs and talking about having an adventure. It was decided that we would drop over and see Turtle beach, since neither of us had been there for a few years. Turned out we found a couple of new things, like a very needy group of Huicholes and a crocodile farm we didn't know about. Here it is.
It is another beautiful day in paradise. It is 8:45. the jeep is loaded with the four of us, lunches and food and clothing for the poor. We head out through La Peñita, where they are still working on the road; it has been two years now. This is supposed to go through to Tepic and I fully expect it to be finished during my grand children's or maybe my great grandchildren's life.
The countryside is green, the mangoes are getting larger, they should be starting to ripen in late May or early June. We see smoke back in the mountains. This means more rain forests going down the tube. If they keep this up the day will be seen when there are no more in Nayarit. I read somewhere that at the current rate all will be gone in México within 50 years. During my 6 years here in Guayabitos I keep seeing them going and going. Oh, well, civilization, I guess that is progress.
We pass Puerto de La Lima and I note the kilometers to read 295. The tobacco is starting to ripen and all the fields look good even though it is getting toward the dry season. We pass the cut off to Chacala and the many fruit stands. They sell so many nice things. A shame that few gringos stop. Mostly they don't know what the little packages contain. Many types of fruit and coconut candies. Banana pastries. Honey, fruits, and melons.
Arriving in Las Varas, we turn left at the traffic light and go in the direction of Zacualpán, our first stop where we will gas up and visit the outdoor museum. Kilometers are 306. We pass through many more pretty fields of sorgum, tobacco, beans, squash, watermelons, mangoes and other fruits.
We enter Zacualpán at 9:16 and the kilometers are 314.
As we enter we see a lot of very poor looking children under a shed so we pull over. There are about 18 young children, including several babies. There is one woman looking after them. There is a small wood fire and one small pot with some beans cooking. They are Hiuchol Indians. The older children and parents are out gathering chiles for a packing shed. They will not return until about dark. There is no food in sight except for the small pot of beans. The shed roof was partially blown off by the hurricane and they have tried to make small shelters with pieces of plastic. There is no water and they look hungry and dirty. It is obvious that this is day to day living for them. Vicky brings out the store of rice, beans and sugar that we have aboard. We pass out candy and promise to stop by on our return trip. We snap a few photos and we are on our way.
Zacualpán is a busy little farm town and we pit stop for gas and make our way to the museum, passing by the large plaza and surrounding church and government buildings, which look neat and colonial. There are found a number of rocks and stones with symbols and carvings. Some elaborate some simple. Some date back over 4000 years ago. Dinosaurs were found in these parts and evidence of hunters. The Aztecs were fairly new comers here. After looking through the little outdoor museum, made colorful by the many flowers and roses, we reboard the jeep and get on the road again.
Entering in San Ysidro, we stop at a small fruit stand on the right. They have maps of the coast near Turtle Beach and the development which has been slowly going in during the past few years. On we go, passing through Ixtapa. It is kilometer 323. We see the high mountains off to our right, which is Le Cumbre and El Malinal. Places where our coffee comes from. As most of our readers know, we get a lot of our coffee directly from the plantations in the mountains. We roast the green beans and grind them fresh daily. Each of these little villages have topes (speed bumps) so watch out! The country is changing and it is dry scrub trees. Not very hospitable looking and the ground does not look fertile. This used to be beautiful rain forest.
Reaching the turnoff to Turtle Beach, we turn left.. It is 10:18 and the kilometers are 329. There is a large sign here so you can't miss this one.
We pass through many newly planted mango groves and planted fields. The road curves and there is a sign that says 6.5 kilometers to Playa Las Tortugas. It is kilometer 333 and the planted fields give way to scrub brush and coconut palms can be seen in the distance. We soon arrive in a coconut grove that stretches as far as the eye can see to the south and the point of Punta Custodio to the north.
We soon arrive at the development. About a half dozen very nice homes. Nicely landscaped, a couple very elaborate. Passing through the home area we come to the end of the road and park. The beach is in front of us and there is a large estuary on the right. The beach is long and beautiful. If I only had balloon tires on the jeep I think I could drive all of the way to Boca de Chila. (I have a story about this place and the pirate treasure). There are a couple of wrecked buildings, downed power poles and much evidence of damage by Hurricane Kenna back in October of 2002. A turtle hatchery was here. Because the green turtle is, or was on the endangered list, eggs were gathered and brought here to escape poachers, who would gather and sell them, although illegal. Thousands were here and they, along with the buildings that housed them, were destroyed. Hopefully the program will be restarted before the summer season starts again. We talk briefly with a home owner who tells us that a new phase of the development has started and more homes will be built. A nice place to get away from it all. It looks like something you would find in the southseas. An unspoiled paradise. Although just across the channel from Platanitos, and the highway, you must go all the way around because the ecologists will not permit the mouth of the estuary to be bridged. Hooray for them.
Part 2
In part 1 we departed from Rincón de Guayabitos with four of us in the jeep. We stopped at Zacualpán to help some poor Huicholes and then toured the outdoor museum. We then went to Turtle beach and had a look around.
Reboarding the jeep we leave Turtle Beach and return in the direction we had come. Noting a hand written sign that said “Crocodile 5 pesos”, we turn toward the estuary and finally come to a palapa and a few small pens containing crocodiles; or at least I thought they were. A man came out from the palapa and explained that they were caimans. For the life of me I cannot tell the difference. Although the difference between alligators, crocodiles and caimans has been explained to me many times I do not know the difference. I only know that where they swim I refuse.
He further explained that there was a shortage of food for them and they were very hungry. I noticed that no one in our group volunteered to go in and comfort them. There was a pile of coconuts on the ground and he cut the end off of one for each of us. The cool coconut juice hit the spot because it was getting hot and we were thirsty. I am afraid that if he is depending on pesos from the odd tourist that happens on this spot to feed these creatures, the crocs are in for a hard time.
We hop aboard again. We make another stop on this long beautiful beach. No one lives here for miles and it ends at the mouth of Boca de Chila, the old pirate cove. (another story) Here is the only road that I know of that will bring you to the beach. We get out and snap a few photos. There are also miles of coconut groves and, according to a couple of hard to get maps that we have, more estuaries, sand bars and other interesting things. If only I had balloon tires on my jeep I would like to check out this long isolated stretch, just to see what is there. Our next stop will be the beach at Platanitos. We return on the rough road to the highway and turn left. Soon we arrive at an intersection where a side road joins and where you can see a beautiful little cove with palapas. This is Platanitos. At that intersection on the right can be seen a few buildings and a defensive position that is manned by Mexican Marines, from time to time to provide cover for a check point on the road below. What are they checking for? Going left and down, we pass the beach and palapas. Note: Last October this whole stretch of beach was wiped clean by hurricane Kenna. It is nice to see that is has been largely rebuilt. A few fishing pangas are scattered here and there. You can always eat fresh catch here.
Leaving the beach we go left around the small mountain and soon come to the estuary. We can see Turtle Beach right across the way. There is a clearing below and I see cars parked. We could easily swim across or maybe wade. Who is afraid of the caiman. Me?? Continuing on we come to another small home development at Punta Custudio. We pass a short distance, find a shady spot and have lunch. The usual, Turkey ham and cheese sandwiches, potato chips, bread and butter pickles, pickled beets, small snacks, beer, soda and coffee.
After filling ourselves we drive on down the hill to Platanitos, park the jeep and have a look around.
I have heard that this place is scheduled for development as soon as the ecologists are dealt with. Hotels, a golf course, homes and of course a bridge across the estuary. Farewell to the little fishing village of Platanitos.
It is 2:04 in the afternoon and the kilometers are 361. Now we head home. Reaching Zacualpán, we stop at the old, semi roofless packing shed where the children of the workers are that we helped this morning and pass out all of the clothing we have aboard (see these photos). The children tell us that the adults well be returning at about 6 p.m.
After exhausting our supply of candy and clothing (we handed out all of the food earlier) we tell them we will return in a couple of days with a little more help. Back to the jeep and we return home.
Note: We did a bit of shopping and returned when the adults were there with food and more clothes. It was after dark, so it was difficult to take photos. My digital does not do well unless the light is good.
The explorers in paradise
Bob, Vicky, Lenore and Dave the adventurers on this trip. They encounter a remote beach community, a destroyed turtle hatchery, crocodiles, a needy group of Huichol Indians and more.
A needy group of Huichol Indians
We notice a group of young Huicholes with one woman in charge. They are living under an abandoned shed that had part of the roof missing.
Vicky and her friends
Little food was in sight and times are hard for these little one. Those nine and older were out picking chiles with the adults.
This is home for 58 people
40 adults (all after age nine were considered adults and work in the field) and 18 children, including babies live here.
Vicky gives a helping hand
Vicky packs something for everyone when we make these trips. Clothing, food, such as rice, beans and sugar, a few toys and candy.
Look at these smiling faces
The Huicholes are a proud people that live in remote mountain village, far from modern civilizations. They only come down now and then to sell their handicrafts and earn a little money before returning. These folks are contracted for 3 months to pick chiles.
What is it, when she receives a piece of candy
Basic needs are in short supply and luxuries, such as this, are rare.
An outdoor petroglyph museum
This museum is located in Zacualpán, Nayarit, México. A little hard to find. There are a number of writings and symbols.
What do all of these symbols or drawings mean?
Up to 4000 years old, many historians differ as to the use or meanings. We will never know.
This looks similar to Aztec and Mayan work
Yet the Mayans were far to the South and the Aztecs never did settle this part of the country. The nearest serious outpost being Aztlán del Río, a couple of hour's drive from here.
What were these used for?
There used to be a number of these here but people have hauled them off. They look like a round ball cut in half. They had no metal tools, only obsidian. How did they do this?
A long deserted beach
The beach runs for many miles between Punta Custudio and Boca de Chila, the old pirate lair.
Coconut trees line much of the beach
The beach is deserted for many miles. If I had balloon tires on my jeep I could drive all the way to the treasure cove at Boca de Chila. This is an area we hope to explore soon.
Getting away from it all
Sweet drinking water is easily reached by hand dug wells a few feet down. Oyster and fish abound. There is wild fruit and all the coconuts you want. A large estuary runs behind most of the beach with shrimp. Build a palapa, swim in the warm sea. Why not?
An estuary behind the beach
This estuary separates the old turtle hatchery from Punta Custudio and the nearby highway. Ecologists have not permitted a bridge and easy access. Good for them.
Beautiful homes at Turtle Beach
Six homes have been built during the last several years. The nearby turtle hatchery containing thousands of turtle eggs was destroyed by hurricane Kenna.
Custom homes at Turtle beach
It is a long hard drive over a rough road or a short boat ride from the fishing village at Platanitos, to get to Turtle Beach. This still leaves you a long way to the nearest town. Like solitud? This is it.
Driving through the coconut groves
Thousands of coconuts. Many lying on the ground. There is a popular drink called tuba. We used to make it out in the islands. Put a little fruit down the eyes and plug it. When the plug blows off instant booze.
A nice pool almost on the beach
The home owners association pool. Complete with palapa and facilities.
A nice setting for a pool
Watch the sunset while relaxing in the warm waters of this pool. Maybe have a margarita too.
A crocodile or caiman
This and others were held in caged areas with small ponds. They were captured in the estuary.
This one actually looks hungry
A small handwritten sign that said "Crocodiles, 5 pesos" was nailed to a palm and there was an arrow pointing toward the estuary. The roads were not good and the place was hard to find.
Sleeping beauty
There was a palapa and a few pens on the edge of the estuary. The caretaker said they were hungry and had no food. I think few visitors come here.
More crocs or caiman
There is a large crocodile farm not far from San Blas where they are raising hundreds for release back into the estuaries. The species was endangered in these parts and it is illegal to kill them.
Looking for a friend in the pond
Maybe these should be released back into the estuary if they are not being cared for.
Opened coconuts
He cut off the ends of the coconuts and we each drank the sweet cool juice. Then - you can see what we did with the inside in the next photo
Suprise!!
I snapped this of Vicky as she was enjoying the creamy sauce that lined the enterior of each coconut. Delicious.
A long lonely beach
This is a stretch of beach that we stopped at on the way back to the highway. It goes for miles and nobody live there. You could play Robinson Crusoe here.
My kind of beach
A light surf and shallow beach. Good swimming here. Looking back toward Turtle Beach and Punta Custudio.
A palm lined beach
Miles of coconuts and a long wide beach. There are worse places to spend your time.
A large coconut grove
This is ejido land. They and buyers are waiting for government approval to develop this end of the beach, even though that still leaves miles of natural beach, I can't help but wish that it doesn't happen.
The mouth of the estuary
Between Punta Custudio and Platanitos. The developers want a bridge across here.
More beautiful beach
Turtle Beach as seen from across the estuary at Punta Custudio
