23 March 2003
[photos from this trip were published separately and appear below the text]
Trip to the waterfalls at El Cora
Part 1
For a long time we had been thinking of the trip to the waterfalls near El Cora. From the top near the village – a dangerous undertaking. From the bottom – unknown trails and roads. There are three falls. Vicky, my traveling companion and licensed tour guide, had been to the top pool and falls, but not the middle or the bottom. We heard that there was a guide in the village of El Llano. With that in mind, we decided, since we only had two guests at our bed and breakfast, and since they were willing to go on an adventure, this was the time. Here is our story.
It is 8:20 in the morning and another beautiful day in Paradise. We are heading out on another adventure into the unknown. Our vehicle is a 1985 CJ7. Our driver is the author of this story. Our tour guide is Vicky Flores. Our passengers are our B&B guests Jeff and Jane Hill from Juneau, Alaska. Our goal for today is the waterfalls at Cora. And away we go.
As we leave Mi Casa es Su Casa at Rincon de Guayabitos, Vicky announces the usual. Saying “I hope so we go back from this trip”.
We go out on the highway, which has more traffic than usual, and head North in the direction of Tepic. Our speedometer reads 975 kilometers.
We pass through the pretty green countryside. Many trees, tropical plants and small farms. There are mangoes, papayas, bananas, beans, fields of tobacco and many others. We pass by the village of Puerta de la Lima and make a stop at Balastre. The home of Peluda the burro. A previous story. This family needed some medicine, and Vicky, who is a nurse at the hospital at Las Varas, wants to drop some off. We make a pit stop and again we are off.
The kilometers are 992 and it is 8:38. The sky is beautiful and things are starting to grow back after the hurricane. Soon we are nearing the road leading to the beach community of Chacala, which was hard hit by the hurricane. We see lots of fruit stands. Here can be bought coconuts, coconut candy, bananas, pineapples, watermelons, sweet breads, honey, bananas, papayas and many other things, including yaca, the Mexican answer to viagra.
We enter the community of Las Varas and turn left at the traffic light and head in the direction of San Blas. Again we pass through planted fields, passing by the entrance to Boca de Chila, the pirate den where possibly lies buried treasure and where on a previous trip one of our guests actually found an old Spanish coin. An adventure for someone with a metal detector. On we go and soon enter the Pueblo of Zacualpan. We stop to top off the gas tank and decide that, while we are here, we will show them a small outdoor park that contains a lot of old stone artifacts.
It is 9:04 and we pull up in front of the park. A gardener is working and trimming the roses that abound within. We walk through and our guests snap a number of photos. These artifacts were found when the road was being built and other construction that required excavation. There are petroglyphs on some of the boulders, small flat round stones – how did they do such precision work with only obsidian tools. Metal was unknown to this generation. The first thing we see I better not discuss here, although I have a photo. We spend a while, give the gardener a small gratuity and are on the road again. You know, the thing about this outdoor museum is that very few people know about it and it is not easy to find. I have never met a gringo who has seen it. I guess you are going to have to just look at the photos or come with us on a trip to find out where it is.
Again passing through more fields and small villages. We know where many of the roads go. Those to the right lead to the high mountains and coffee country – La Cumbre, The old German colony of El Malinal, El Italiano – where most men were killed during the revolution and where only three old ladies survive, and La Cofradia all of which have great Arabica coffee. Many others. We pass through San Ysidro, Ixtapa, a few ranches and continue on toward the coast. At kilometer 021 we pass the entrance to the turtle hatchery and Playa Custodio, a development and miles of pristine beaches, only a few kilometers distant. This is where turtle eggs are taken and permitted to hatch unmolested. Turtles nest during Jul – Oct and the hatchery releases Aug – Dec. A neat trip.
Now we pass a large estuary and arrive at the intersection to Platanitos and we decide to swing down and stretch our legs. This is an age old fishing village and has remained almost unchanged except for the palapa restaurants with delicious fresh caught seafood. It is a cove with gentle waves. This place is being discovered. Hidden on the point, which is Punta El Custudio, is the new development of Costa Custudio. It is a must to see now because an artist colony, golf course and marina are planned for here. Progress that I could do without. While Vicky and our guests stroll the beach I break out coffee and cookies. This coffee is from the mountains near Mesillas and is Arabica Altura, which I shelled and cleaned with our hand grinder, roasted last night and ground fresh this morning. I will never tire of this aroma and full flavor. We have a leisure cup, a couple of cookies and reboard the jeep. The next stop will be El Llano, a small tropical village where we are going to find a guide.
Now we are traveling along jungle cliffs overlooking the sea. What a place to build a home. The road passes over mountains, jungle, streams, through villages. What scenery. At places we can see all along the coast to San Blas. Beautiful. Dotted with beaches, and small villages. Jungle forests, valleys, on the other side, coffee country . wow! Sometimes I seriously ask myself what I ever did to deserve this life. One of my many regrets is that I didn`t decide to live like I do many years earlier. Somebody up there must like me. Although we are on a winding mountain road, it is well paved and maintained with pull outs here and there. There are several small beaches far below. Vicky and I are talking about exploring this entire area and soon. Now we are coming into the village of El Llano, where we will start looking for a guide.
Part 2
In part one we had just arrived in our jeep at the Pueblo of El Llano, where we were going to look for a guide to take us to the lower waterfalls at El Cora. We, consists of the author, Vicky Flores, my partner in our business adventures of a Bed and Breakfast and Back Road tours, and our guests, Jeff and Jane Hill.
We pull in to El Llano and it is 10 a.m. The odometer reads 0035 kilometers.
There is a pretty little church with a nice plaza and it is right on the main highway. The town is spread out. Not just built around the plaza, it just kind of stretches.
We have never been to the lower waterfalls before, although Vicky has been to the upper falls. We have been told that a local guide would be needed. A visit to the Comisario (town mayor ?) and the local cantina produced a guide. Beto Montez, Beto boards the jeep with his guitar and we are on the road again. We back track down the highway and take a side road.
The road is dirt and gravel, not bad at this point. Beto says we need to go about six kilometers to our jumping off place. We pass a little settlement and a neat little rancho. It is a small trailer park. Beto says it belongs to some gringos. Now we go down into a little valley. There is a jungle canopy overhead. The road divides and we go to the right. There is a banana field to our right. Now water is running down the center of the road. Beto tells us that many artifacts are to be found. Ceramics, some petroglyphs, etc. The road starts to get rough. I put it in 4 wheel drive. We are passing through a mango grove and planted areas.
Beto tells us an interesting story. Germans came to this area in 1906 and started a hacienda. It extended all the way into the mountains where they planted coffee and down to the coast. They built roads, a hacienda and settlements for their workers. Produce was shipped out by wagons and mules. Of course the revolution of 1910 to 1914 put an end to the haciendas. Soon we come to a tunnel that goes through the mountain. Beto says the Germans built it, but I found out different later. We pass through. It is very narrow and Vicky gets a little nervous. This is not helped by the darkness and the many bats flying around. I make mention that this place looks a little shaky and could collapse at any moment. I realize this mistake too late when a near panic starts in the jeep. Soon we come to the end and come out in another valley.
Note on the tunnel: There are two tunnels in the area. We did not locate the other. A railroad was planned from Tepic to San Blas but never completed. Limited records made note that two tunnels were completed in this area. I could not find dates or other data.
We enter a small forest of what appears to be miniature bamboo but the guide has a different name for it, and I can`t remember what. Now we come to some red flowers which are called mala mujeres, or bad women. (what did they do?) Now we see some red looking trees with what looks like paper hanging from them. The guide says if you make tea from them it will increase your appetite. I glance at my stomach and decide I don`t need to know more. It is 11:09 and we are at kilometer 0047. We are passing through a different kind of country here. The road is up and down , the soil is red and there is only a tree here and there. We go sharply down hill and come to a little creek and enter a real bamboo grove. Large, round and very tall. Just beyond we come to a second creek. There is an entry through the fence and we follow the creek up some distance. There is a near solid bamboo grove. The road narrows and we park. The guide insists that we take the ice chest and guitar. Who am I to argue. I like food and music. A note here. There is no way you can enter this road without a 4 wheel drive. The entrance is rough and steep. We follow along the stream and pass through a couple of cattle gates.
We continue along this bubbling stream, which has many pools quite big enough for swimming. It is forested on both sides. Soon we pass a small banana patch, then a field of corn, both are irrigated. There must be a spring above. We find a rock that has petroglyphs and I snap a picture. There are a lot of boulders above. I bet if we checked them out we would find more petroglyphs. This is interesting country. We are in the middle of a rainforest. The ground is fertile. Water abounds. There sure would be worse places in the world to settle. The trail is getting a little rough. We cross the creek several times. Jeff, the guide, and even Vicky (she insists and there is no arguing with this little lady) switch off carrying the ice chest. They won`t let me. They must think I am old or something. The stream is getting bigger as we go. Up through another bamboo grove. The water is getting louder. Vicky falls into the stream for a second time. Now we leave the river. We are up the mountain through many oak trees. The trail forks. We go left. Now descending on a trail that has been worn over centuries. The stream is down below. It looks like a swimming stream. The water is azure blue. There is the cascada! (waterfall). It is beautiful here. The water is falling down a rock face. There is a very large deep pool. Like a small lake. As I write this I am listening to the tape and the music of the falling water. I wish I was still there. It took us an hour and 8 minutes of hiking. Well worth the effort to be in this little Eden. We lounge around. Vicky goes for a swim.
Jeff and the guide climb up to the middle fall and pool. That is as far as one can go safely. We break out the lunch – Turkey ham and cheese sandwiches, pickles, goodies, potatoe chips, beer, soda, coffee, etc. Beto picks up his guitar. He plays and sings. Here we are sitting in another beautiful world. It is hard to imagine the hardship and crisis now going on in war torn Iraq. This is a moment when you might weaken and just say goodbye real world and live here in paradise.
It is 1:30 and we pack up and leave paradise. The weather has warmed and we take a couple of breaks on the way back. We arrive an hour and nine minutes later at the jeep.
We continue on toward the Pueblo of El Cora arriving about 15 minutes later. A larger village than I thought. We pause to take a couple of photos and pass through. The road is very good and soon changes from dirt to pavement. Although a little narrow, the pavement is good and there are many places to pull out. We pass through more tropical fruit groves and come to the village of Tecuitata, a neat place sitting on the hillside, and then the main road from Tepic to Santa Cruz on the coast. The kilometers are 059. We have beautiful views and a nice trip home.
We arrive home at 5:39 and the kilometers are 0133. For a total of 58 on this trip. We left at 8:20 so time was a little over 9 hours.
Petroglyphs on a rock at Zacualpán
We stop at the outdoor museum on our way to the waterfalls at El Cora.
More petroglyphs
Some of these date back over 4000 years. Most were found when the road was being constructed
A rock bowl used for grinding corn and nuts
This one is larger than most that we have found in the jungles.
Are these ancient writings?
We are reminded somewhat of the Aztec calender, which of course it is not. Actually the Aztec calendar was made in Yucatan by the Mayas.
Of what use was this?
Several of these perfectly rounded and curved rocks were present.
Like a round ball cut in half
Like the writings and petroglyphs, we will never know of what use these were for. Historians have different opinions.
What do you think this is?
I cannot comment.
The small fishing village of Platanitos
A beautiful beach and estuary. There is a planned development here. An artist colony, marina and golf course. Better see it now.
The church and plaza at El Llano
After leaving Platanitos we continue on through tropical forests and mountains to the town of El Llano, where we will find a guide to take us to the waterfalls of El Cora.
Vicky and the Comisario of El Llano
Vicky asks the Comosaria, (mayor)where we can find a guide to the waterfalls.
Vicky talks to our Guide
Beto Montez and Vicky talk in front of Beto's home. He is a singing guide and brings his guitar.
A petroglyph on a rock
After driving through mountains and jungle, we park the jeep and start hiking. We soon come across this petroglyph along the trail.
The stream we are following
This stream empties into the river below the falls.
A waterfall at El Cora
We soon come to the lower waterfall. There is a beautiful pool to swim in.
One of three waterfalls
The falls are located on an old hacienda that was settled by German immigrants in 1906. The revolution of 1910 - 1914 broke up the haciendas.
A great swimming hole
The water was icy cold but very refreshing. The pool was deep. We never did find out how deep.
Vicky paddles around
We pick a shady spot next to the pool and have a picnic lunch. Sandwiches, beer and goodies.
A tropical paradise in the middle of the jungle
The first waterfall has easy access. The second involves a brisk climb up the rocks. The upper falls must be reached from another access from above, which is a dangerous climb.
Steep rocky cliffs surround the pool
The stream can be crossed a short distance below the pool and brief, but heavy, climb will take you to the middle pool and falls.
Vicky kicks back
A tired hiker. Vicky, Jeff and the guide took turns carrying the ice chest. It was hard work.
Beto sings and plays
Beto has a nice voice and plays well. Although poor by northern standards, he is richer in life than most. He farms 2 hectares (4.4 acres) brings in a little money now and then as a guide, looks ten years younger than his 62 years and has the energy of a mountain goat. He will outlive most of us and he is a very happy man.
Jeff crosses the stream with the ice chest
We cross the stream many times. Vicky fell in twice.
Jeff clowns on the bamboo
There is a small forest of bamboo along the stream.
We are surrounded by mountains and tropical rain forest
The tropical rain forest is fast disappearing throughout the world. It is estimated that in 50 years there will be no more in Mexico.
We meet a vaquero along the road
This is cattle country. There are few fences. This is ejido land. The revolution divided the haciendas into ejidos, where all members share in the use of the land.
The countryside changes along this road
This road served the old German settlement many years ago. They planted coffee up in the mountains, and varied crops down below. This was an old horse drawn wagon road at one time.
Entering the village of El Cora
A surprisingly large pueblo in the mountains. Now served by a good road, it was very hard to get to, especially during the rainy season
The church in El Cora
This village is rather poor and there is no plaza by the church.
The new road down the mountain
A new paved highway goes down the mountain to the village of Tecuitata and the main highway between Tepic and Santa Cruz on the coast.
The village super market
It is a long ways to a real super market. Shopping is limited and prices are high. A hardship for those who can least afford it.
A basic home in Tecuitata
Home is where the heart is. This one is pretty basic. The walls are naturally air conditioned but let in the critters.
The adventurers
Left to right we have Jeff and Jane Hill, the author, Vicky Flores and guide, Beto Montez.
